Before we landed in Egypt, the flight crew asked me this while handing out the typical international flight immigration forms. The question continued just about everywhere we went. From stores to markets to restaurants to people on the street--everyone would begin to speak to me in Arabic.
And then they would stop--sometimes before the completion of a word, they would stop and begin again in English. Something was still giving me away as American. This proved to be an interesting discussion starter with the CCF.
A few hypothesized that it was my gold wedding ring, as Muslims don't wear gold. I also have a silver anniversary band on my right ring finger, which could really trip people up. But, few locals were getting a look at my hand.
Others said it was my beard as I kept a thin, trim beard when we arrived. Several Muslims, particularly those belonging o the Muslim Brotherhood in Cairo will keep a thick beard with no mustache, but they also wear the tunic style robes usually. Few Christians wear a beard, though it is gaining some popularity along with mustaches, goatees, and more western looks. The generations were divided on whether or not my beard was giving me away.
Some also wondered if my clothes were giving me away--Cairo has become so Western in the dress styles, that I don't think I was dressed very differently than many others who were around.
But, i have another idea: I think it may have been my "deer-in-the-headlights" look--that stunned look of surprise I must have had every time someone would begin Arabic and I didn't understand.
However, this didn't stop passport control from questioning me when exiting the country. They looked at my passport and back me before asking, "do you speak Arabic?". When I said no, they asked for my country or origin. When I said, "America," they asked, "always America?"
Yeah, I should have many more interesting passport control conversations once I do learn a little Arabic and have my passport stamps throughout Europe & Middle East!
Sunday, September 25, 2011
Friday, September 23, 2011
Cairo Overall...
There's a definite, greater sense of reality now as we have been there and had all of our senses not just engaged, but overwhelmed. We spent a week in an initial effort to acclimate and get a handle on what we need to do and learn, and through all of that we realized we have A LOT to do and learn!
Language will obviously still be a hurdle; but there appears to be enough grace and English grasped around us to be of help. The awareness of great poverty and the inability to really make a dent in what is extremely overwhelming.
Helping the kids adjust and get their bearings in this community, especially in attempting to get to and from school will take a lot of time. Which schools still remain a question as each provides their own adjustment challenges.
We will have a wealth of things to see and discover together as a family, and this will provide the escape opportunities when the life of the bustling city with such need becomes overwhelming.
We are grateful also for our 3W teammates who will not only provide good encouragement, but also great partnership for working together throughout the region. We truly believe bringing Grace was the right decision and we're so grateful for the means, permission, and opportunity; this gave her a week to help slow down the pace of transition as compared to the quick jump into the deep-end that will take place when we return. That now becomes a prayer request for us as we try to help the boys to prepare.
And then there's the family and friends we will leave behind and the uphill challenge of developing additional friends and support networks. During our time away, we were blessed with the opportunity to 'Skype' with the boys and each of our parents--this technology along with things like magic-jack (which apparently works great in Egypt), VoIP phonelines, email, and Facebook can help ease the sorrow the distance will bring, but it will be but a band-aid to an open wound.
We will keep you up to date on our progress--we're awaiting a miraculous growth in partnerships for our monthly personal/ministry needs budget hopefully before November 1 so we can stay on track for a early January departure. Thank you all for your ongoing love, support, & prayers.
Language will obviously still be a hurdle; but there appears to be enough grace and English grasped around us to be of help. The awareness of great poverty and the inability to really make a dent in what is extremely overwhelming.
Helping the kids adjust and get their bearings in this community, especially in attempting to get to and from school will take a lot of time. Which schools still remain a question as each provides their own adjustment challenges.
We will have a wealth of things to see and discover together as a family, and this will provide the escape opportunities when the life of the bustling city with such need becomes overwhelming.
We are grateful also for our 3W teammates who will not only provide good encouragement, but also great partnership for working together throughout the region. We truly believe bringing Grace was the right decision and we're so grateful for the means, permission, and opportunity; this gave her a week to help slow down the pace of transition as compared to the quick jump into the deep-end that will take place when we return. That now becomes a prayer request for us as we try to help the boys to prepare.
And then there's the family and friends we will leave behind and the uphill challenge of developing additional friends and support networks. During our time away, we were blessed with the opportunity to 'Skype' with the boys and each of our parents--this technology along with things like magic-jack (which apparently works great in Egypt), VoIP phonelines, email, and Facebook can help ease the sorrow the distance will bring, but it will be but a band-aid to an open wound.
We will keep you up to date on our progress--we're awaiting a miraculous growth in partnerships for our monthly personal/ministry needs budget hopefully before November 1 so we can stay on track for a early January departure. Thank you all for your ongoing love, support, & prayers.
Maadi
Bits of this post are from an old Maadi map that provided some history, as well assume current periodicals that we received during our visit...
Maadi literally means “ferry landing” – historically, it appears there have always been settlements here along the Nile River. Coptic (Egyptian Christian) Church history records that this is the community through which the Holy Family (Mary, Joseph, and Baby Jesus) came through to either cross the Nile or to secure passage south on the Nile to Upper Egypt (due to higher elevation) where Jewish settlements were thought to have been. Along the southern part of Maadi, you will find the Coptic Church of the Virgin Mary, which was purposefully built here as a memorial to the Holy Family’s visit and they hold an annual special liturgy on June 1st in commemoration.
This is particularly a significant and affirming bit of history for our own calling. I found a painting on papyrus of the Holy Family on pilgrimage in Egypt—I hope to have this framed and hung in the entryway of our new home in Maadi. As many of you have heard about the events leading to our call, you know that Keli was more on board early in our praying than I was. As I prepared that week for the message to take place on the next Sunday after we were asked to serve, the pre-planned passage of Scripture was on Joseph’s dream to escape to Egypt; particularly, Matthew 2:13, “Rise, take the child and his mother, and flee to Egypt…” This was a confirming Scripture to our sense of call to serve in Egypt, so to make the connection from that passage to this particular history is just really cool.
Since the beginning of the 20th Century, Maadi has been home for many internationals. The Delta Land Company bought up large portions of property along the rail lines. They began with developing a round-about / city square and then several main streets radiating from there, among which was Road 9 running parallel to the rail line. Road 9 became the center from shops, restaurants and services. Additional streets were planned and lots were created for homes; the streets were numbered and planned in a grid pattern, while the avenues were lined with a variety of beautiful trees and flowers creating quite a garden district. The Delta Land Company maintained strict control of the community and enforced higher standards on the residence construction for decades, providing a safe, international friendly haven for decades with the creation of sports clubs, schools, and more.
Political events of the late 1950’s and early 1960’s led to the Delta Land Company being dissolved and their properties and assets seized locally, along with many other businesses. Neighboring residential lots were snatched up as many expatriates now finding themselves enemies of the community fled; the result was several villas destroyed to make way for apartment buildings. The quality and control once exercised by the Delta Land Company also were destroyed resulting in a deterioration of quality throughout the community.
In the past few decades, the quality has returned to Maadi, with many expatriates still residing in the Maadi community. Area nationals and expatriates alike have formed community organizations that work together for improving the quality and standards of the community. Restrictions of building have been instituted to prevent the building of high-rise apartment buildings and to preserve the natural beauty of this garden district.
The future of Maadi being home to internationals, diplomats and the higher classes of Egyptian nationals is uncertain. With the introduction of foreign investments, such as the Saudi owned City Stars mall, there are several multi-million dollar communities being built new toward the airport along the major highways and away from the pollution, clutter, and chaos of the city. We have also heard that some companies have begun, or are at least contemplating, building their own residential communities around their headquarters for their employees and their families to reduce the commutes, and to separate their employees from the masses in the city.
Nonetheless, Maadi will be our home and a continuing portal for the Church of God’s ministry engagement into this strategic part of the world.
Road 9 & Shopping
Almost since the beginning, we heard about the neighboring Road 9 and the various shops and restaurants that are there for the community. There are the local carpenters, various specialty shops, souvenir shops, pricey restaurants, coffee shops, grocery and hardware stores. The road is much more narrow and the trees come right to the edge of the sidewalks at points. An unfortunate aspect of the city is all the trash and debris that lines all the streets, including Road 9.
That is not all the shopping there is to find in Maadi. A couple new malls have sprung up, like City Center. Once past the medal detectors, you are in any western mall complete with a food court (McD's & KFC), we ate at a Chili's, and walked by a variety of similar stores such as Claires. I also bought Grace a Starbucks. As I stared at the menu and contemplated the conversion from Egyptian Pounds (LE) to US $'s, I thought that this is comparable to the US. And then I paid for the drink in LE and quickly realized the awful irony--the bulk of the population outside the air conditioned comfort and sliding doors could never rightly afford one of these drinks without giving up food or other necessities.
Similarly, there is a new Saudi owned mall--the Egyptian young adults said that they now have new rules for no single guys on the weekends, no spaghetti straps or tank tops, and no public displays of affection (holding hands or kissing).
Then, Jamie and Audrey took me to the Egyptian version of Chester, England (Keli wasn't feeling well, and Grace stayed behind to spend time at the villas). The market area of downtown was called Khan El Khalili--imagine the market in Aladdin, and you are close to the picturesque and remarkable atmosphere. The comic absurdity is not found in a blue genie, but in all the shopkeepers who sit outside and plead for you to come in and just take a look, or with greetings in your native language offering 50% off for tourists, and even "just for you, 99% off"! There are trinkets, souvenirs, beautiful handcrafted items, antiques, to produce and baked goods. The architecture of the whole are may be the best part though. What you won't find is a price and everything is bartered--you can get a bargain, but you won't get it easily!
We did see one large modern supermarket, but everything you need is in the smaller, local markets. In addition to the little stands and sidewalk vendors, there are often those selling from carts or large basket-type trays balanced on their heads.
That is not all the shopping there is to find in Maadi. A couple new malls have sprung up, like City Center. Once past the medal detectors, you are in any western mall complete with a food court (McD's & KFC), we ate at a Chili's, and walked by a variety of similar stores such as Claires. I also bought Grace a Starbucks. As I stared at the menu and contemplated the conversion from Egyptian Pounds (LE) to US $'s, I thought that this is comparable to the US. And then I paid for the drink in LE and quickly realized the awful irony--the bulk of the population outside the air conditioned comfort and sliding doors could never rightly afford one of these drinks without giving up food or other necessities.
Similarly, there is a new Saudi owned mall--the Egyptian young adults said that they now have new rules for no single guys on the weekends, no spaghetti straps or tank tops, and no public displays of affection (holding hands or kissing).
Then, Jamie and Audrey took me to the Egyptian version of Chester, England (Keli wasn't feeling well, and Grace stayed behind to spend time at the villas). The market area of downtown was called Khan El Khalili--imagine the market in Aladdin, and you are close to the picturesque and remarkable atmosphere. The comic absurdity is not found in a blue genie, but in all the shopkeepers who sit outside and plead for you to come in and just take a look, or with greetings in your native language offering 50% off for tourists, and even "just for you, 99% off"! There are trinkets, souvenirs, beautiful handcrafted items, antiques, to produce and baked goods. The architecture of the whole are may be the best part though. What you won't find is a price and everything is bartered--you can get a bargain, but you won't get it easily!
We did see one large modern supermarket, but everything you need is in the smaller, local markets. In addition to the little stands and sidewalk vendors, there are often those selling from carts or large basket-type trays balanced on their heads.
Driving in Cairo
I hinted previously that traffic was every bit as bad as we had heard. I think the State Department website warns that driving in Cairo is extremely hazardous and that this may be one of the most difficult cities to navigate by car. They are not exaggerating!
Imagine your local city interstate/state highway: you've got at least 2-3 lanes plus medians, with restricted access and minimum speeds. Everything moves smoothly on these roads because of these norms.
Now, in Cairo, you have the same structural design with none of the norms. Rather than traveling two or three cars wide, you are traveling 5-6 cars wide with motorcycles and mopeds in between. Add your donkey carts to the side, people crossing the road (even old men with canes), buses pulling over to stop to pick up/let out pedestrians, and the 2-3 cars wide of merging traffic from entry ramps--oh, and I can't forget the occasional speed bump--and you have the ingredients for the chaos on the main highways!
Now, in the cities, all of that takes place with added trouble of multiple streets of traffic entering/exiting on any given route, along with mobs of school children passing through, not following one way streets, double parking as needed, roundabouts, u-turning 2-3 cars wide, debris & potholes, and a host of other variables you can't fully describe--it is perhaps even more tricky in town than on the highways.
And we'll get to get a car--this will be quite an adventure!
(one air travel note: I love flying on Airbus jets, regardless of the airline; the economy class is roomier, individual entertainment consoles, and comfortable seats :). I had never flown Swiss Air before, but they run a great, clean service. And the Zurich airport has to be one o the nicest in the world!)
CCF Continued
Waiting to board our flight to Zurich, so I have a moment to continue writing about our trip...
The Cairo Christian Fellowship is not just an international and multicultural church meeting for worship each week, but they also represent a global network of Christians whose spiritual journeys have crossed paths through Cairo in the past 60 years. Their DNA/ethos naturally has characteristics that other fellowships of Christians have to struggle to apply; such as, embracing diversity with celebration, intentional bridge building across denominational and faith lines, and dialogue. They really are a singing church and they love laughter and fellowship. They also have quite a benevolent spirit and are eager to meet needs around them intentionally and strategically. Like many churches, they are losing connections with younger generations and are attempting to make changes to reengage their young adults. These are parts of the reasons we were affirmed for this pastoral role. We had great interaction with several of the older leaders, the whole fellowship, as well as with a couple of the young adults during the past week.
The CCF meet at St. Andrew's Church, conveniently located right at one of the downtown Metro stations. St. Andrew's and CCF have a long and cooperative ministry history that allows for even greater possibilities of partnership in the future. One exciting possibility is discovering how to contribute to their expansive refugee ministry; Cairo is a major center of refugee traffic from throughout the Middle East as well as Africa. Many of these refugees seek to become expatriates in the west, but many simply choose to settle in the growing international metropolis of Cairo. The leaders of St. Andrew's were not only positive of future CCF possibilities, but also being a resource for one aspect of ministry training that we can offer international groups that come through our region.
The Cairo Christian Fellowship is not just an international and multicultural church meeting for worship each week, but they also represent a global network of Christians whose spiritual journeys have crossed paths through Cairo in the past 60 years. Their DNA/ethos naturally has characteristics that other fellowships of Christians have to struggle to apply; such as, embracing diversity with celebration, intentional bridge building across denominational and faith lines, and dialogue. They really are a singing church and they love laughter and fellowship. They also have quite a benevolent spirit and are eager to meet needs around them intentionally and strategically. Like many churches, they are losing connections with younger generations and are attempting to make changes to reengage their young adults. These are parts of the reasons we were affirmed for this pastoral role. We had great interaction with several of the older leaders, the whole fellowship, as well as with a couple of the young adults during the past week.
The CCF meet at St. Andrew's Church, conveniently located right at one of the downtown Metro stations. St. Andrew's and CCF have a long and cooperative ministry history that allows for even greater possibilities of partnership in the future. One exciting possibility is discovering how to contribute to their expansive refugee ministry; Cairo is a major center of refugee traffic from throughout the Middle East as well as Africa. Many of these refugees seek to become expatriates in the west, but many simply choose to settle in the growing international metropolis of Cairo. The leaders of St. Andrew's were not only positive of future CCF possibilities, but also being a resource for one aspect of ministry training that we can offer international groups that come through our region.
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
From a Cupcake Cafe in Cairo
Tonight is our last night in Cairo--it has been a wonderful first trip to the land and people we have felt God calling us to serve since 2009. There's so much to share that it is hard to begin for fear of leaving something out. But I will try to give some details now, and then fill in the gaps later with pictures and maybe some video...
Arrival: we flew in from cool, green Switzerland last Friday. It was hot, but after a couple hours our Alabama skin adjusted quite well and we really didn't feel that bad at all. The airport was very modern; until we walked out from customs/immigration, when we surrounded by he multitude of taxi & bus drivers like any developing nation.
First look at Cairo: vast! Such a large city with such vast differences--from palm trees to desert, from high rises to shanties to everything in between, some are new and some look like they were started in 1970 and never completed. There are signs (the most of which) in Arabic, but many in English--Pepsi, Coke, McDonalds, KFC, Burger King, and many more also have plenty of ad placement in Cairo. And the traffic, well, it is just as we had been warned!
Maadi: we came down the Corniche, a major roadway, that runs along the east bank of the Nile to where we turn east into our part of Maadi, we turn at the Nile TGIFridays :), and proceed to our street. This older garden district boasts some Pretty large houses for diplomats, embassies, and many expatriates--but there was a time in Egypt's history in which many fled and several homes were tore down and lots became high rise apartment buildings. As a result, this is not your typical diplomat neighborhood. This area has a unique modern history, but most significantly is the potential history to Christendom--according to Coptic (Egyptian Christian) church history, Maadi was the area from which the Holy family either crossed he Nile or caught a ride on a southern bound craft on their way to Upper Egypt as a part of their flight from Herod. (more on his in future posts).
The Villas: the villas were purchased in he late 1950's by Jamie's grandfather for the ChoG for about $11,000--they are worth considerably more now! And they are truly lovely, like something out of fantasy island. Well, they will be when properly restored, which is in process now.
Commuting: travel is by foot, until we get our car, but so much is just a nice walk away. Also, taxis are more than reasonable; and there's the train (Metro) for going into downtown--the train was similar to London's Underground, just above ground, dustier, and older trains. There's a special car reserved for ladies & children, which is optional.
CCF--we are truly excited about working with the faith journey of this most unique fellowship! I want to write more but the Internet is about to be cut off--So maybe more tomorrow as we travel to Berlin, and tren back home on Saturday.
Thank you all for your ongoing thoughts and prayers...
Arrival: we flew in from cool, green Switzerland last Friday. It was hot, but after a couple hours our Alabama skin adjusted quite well and we really didn't feel that bad at all. The airport was very modern; until we walked out from customs/immigration, when we surrounded by he multitude of taxi & bus drivers like any developing nation.
First look at Cairo: vast! Such a large city with such vast differences--from palm trees to desert, from high rises to shanties to everything in between, some are new and some look like they were started in 1970 and never completed. There are signs (the most of which) in Arabic, but many in English--Pepsi, Coke, McDonalds, KFC, Burger King, and many more also have plenty of ad placement in Cairo. And the traffic, well, it is just as we had been warned!
Maadi: we came down the Corniche, a major roadway, that runs along the east bank of the Nile to where we turn east into our part of Maadi, we turn at the Nile TGIFridays :), and proceed to our street. This older garden district boasts some Pretty large houses for diplomats, embassies, and many expatriates--but there was a time in Egypt's history in which many fled and several homes were tore down and lots became high rise apartment buildings. As a result, this is not your typical diplomat neighborhood. This area has a unique modern history, but most significantly is the potential history to Christendom--according to Coptic (Egyptian Christian) church history, Maadi was the area from which the Holy family either crossed he Nile or caught a ride on a southern bound craft on their way to Upper Egypt as a part of their flight from Herod. (more on his in future posts).
The Villas: the villas were purchased in he late 1950's by Jamie's grandfather for the ChoG for about $11,000--they are worth considerably more now! And they are truly lovely, like something out of fantasy island. Well, they will be when properly restored, which is in process now.
Commuting: travel is by foot, until we get our car, but so much is just a nice walk away. Also, taxis are more than reasonable; and there's the train (Metro) for going into downtown--the train was similar to London's Underground, just above ground, dustier, and older trains. There's a special car reserved for ladies & children, which is optional.
CCF--we are truly excited about working with the faith journey of this most unique fellowship! I want to write more but the Internet is about to be cut off--So maybe more tomorrow as we travel to Berlin, and tren back home on Saturday.
Thank you all for your ongoing thoughts and prayers...
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Greetings from Deutschland
 |
| Greek for Dinner in Berlin |
We were greeted by Patrick & Jamie Nachtigall at the Berlin airport after the easiest transition/arrival into an international airport that we have ever had. They took us from northwest Berlin to the southwest to their home. There, Zach and Audrey (who arrived on Monday) were waiting for us--it was a great reunion with them. The Nachtigall's home is great and is also serving also as our meeting center for the 3W Team meeting. Grace has been in her room working on homework -- it is helpful that she can't really talk to anyone until late at night due to the 7 hour time difference.
Last night, after our arrival, we attempted some brief rest before a wonderful team dinner at a great Greek restaurant near the homes of the Phillips and Varners. We were glad to see them again, as well as the Simpsons who came in from Bulgaria not long after we arrived. We took a train from the Nachtigall's home toward downtown where the Phillips and Varners live--a short bus ride finished the commute, before we all met up and walked a few blocks to the restaurant. After a wonderful meal, we went back and got a glimpse of the apartments.
The commute back had to be early to be sure that Marco (Patrick & Jamie's son) had to get to bed as he had school this morning. This was actually good for us, though we would have loved to interact longer with our teammates, but we were fading fast after too many hours without sleep. We held on long enough for a brief Skype call to the boys, before falling into a deep & much needed sleep last night. For the moment, we appear to be on schedule here on Central European Time, but we'll see how long that lasts ;)
We have finished meetings today, and will soon have a cookout dinner together, continuing our bonding and mutual encouragement as teammates. I hope to take more pics as the days go on so that we can give you a glimpse of Berlin and the team interactions. Of course, all of this is just leading up to the bigger, important journey to Egypt Friday morning
thank you for your continuing prayers on our behalf...
Thursday, September 8, 2011
no, that's not me on the cover of Rolling Stone...
My hair and beard combo has been a bit of trademark for the last few years since i started growing it to donate for cancer patients. i'm known as "mexican Jesus" or "crossing guard Jesus" in town (i am a crossing guard at one of our busiest intersections where more than 1000 cars pass me every morning on their way to work or school). A Walgreens employee earlier today said, "hey, you're famous!"
i said, "famous?!?"
"yeah," she said, "you're the crossing guard at Cedar Ridge!"
Besides Jesus and George, i've received comparisons to various rock stars, Moses (really?), and even Russell Brand (via a Wendy's employee a couple of weeks ago who was clearly delusional).
But now, the hair is gone--yep, cut it this morning for donation (just enough to meet the requirements for wigs4kids) -- this was a necessary part of our preparation for our trip to Berlin and Cairo next week.
There have been many who thought i was growing out my hair in preparation for our service in the Middle East, and many felt that i had (what they perceived as) a very Middle Eastern look. But, in lots of discussion with international leaders, and one insightful Egyptian American in Houston, the hair would not necessarily be offensive, but would clearly identify me as Western.
Now we have to figure out the facial hair--full beards may also send different messages--so, the goatee may return (i haven't sported that look in about 4 years), or some variation. the only thing not on the table is a plain mustache :0 -- and i'm not too keen on returning to clean shaven.
so that's the update for today--time to go cross the kids--which is likely to create a few more double takes. last year, after my last donation, a couple of old ladies stopped in the intersection to settle the argument they were having of whether i was the same guy with the hair or a replacement! ;)
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